OUR resident foodie, JANE HUTTON, explores the legacy of old recipe books and those dishes our Grandmas used to make.
AS we hit summer, and all its food bounty, hopefully enjoyed with more freedom in more places, what does the word ‘food’ mean to you? Your shopping list? Your lunch? Socialising? Or a childhood favourite, just like Mum or Grandma used to make? Over the last lockdown, I was gifted my greatgrandmother’s recipe book, started in 1903, and seeing what food meant to her set me really thinking about the similarities.
Food as a legacy is a powerful thing, with just an aroma, perhaps a word on a menu, transporting us to a different place or time. Whether savoury or sweet, some dishes tantalisingly linger in our memories, and our repertoires, handed down from parent or grandparent to child, recreated through generations.
In spite of this continuity, food has undergone huge changes, with technology and travel broadening our culinary horizons. Health is another matter. As technology has advanced, so has the pace of our lives, making ease and convenience the watchwords of increasingly frenetic lives, and processed, packaged food the norm rather than the exception. Is it what Grandma used to make? No, even though the name is the same. Was Grandma better nourished? Yes – almost frighteningly so.
Not enough people know that nutrient levels in intensivelyfarmed produce have dropped dramatically since our grandparents’ day; on the flip side, most people know that processed foods are calorie-rich, but nutrient-poor, while chemicals, additives and artificial nasties hidden in what we eat and drink are being revealed as major blights on our health. The phrase “overfed and undernourished” may sound dramatic, but rings truer than ever. So, I hear you cry, if the fruit and veg nestling on the shelves aren’t as nourishing as they were, and convenience foods are bad for us, what’s the answer? It’s remarkably simple: cook AND shop like Grandma did – fresh, nutritious, natural food, from local producers (more nutrients, less chemicals). Cook from scratch, batch cooking at weekends, freezing portions, and getting creative with leftovers. Source recipes, from quick and easy to downright spectacular, including childhood favourites, and allowing kids to find their own favourites to last a lifetime.
Fall in love with food, experimenting with ingredients and flavour, putting modern or personal twists on your family’s best-loved classics. Get the kids away from internet gadgets and onto kitchen ones, not just helping out, but learning healthy food habits, life skills and keeping those legacy recipes alive, especially your own creations. The best of the past taken into the future. Now Grandma would say that’s worth celebrating!
Asparagus tomato pesto cheese tart
You will need:
50g pesto (homemade or storebought)
16 to 20 asparagus spears
150g cherry tomatoes, halved
150g feta, crumbled
150g shredded mozzarella
1 pack of puff pastry
Preheat oven to 190C. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. On a lightly floured work surface, unwrap pastry dough and slightly roll out to an even rectangle, and cut into four equal rectangles. To make things easier, separate rectangles and place on baking sheet so you can prepare on baking sheet. Spread the pesto on the rectangles, leaving 1/2-inch border. Score the border slightly to ensure the edge rises. Top each with 4 to 5 asparagus spears, tomatoes, and both cheeses. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes until lightly golden. Cool for 5 minutes and serve warm, with some hollandaise instead of mayonnaise if you like, enjoying the classic asparagus and hollandaise pairing, and the spring goodness!
Naturally Nourishing is written by nutritionist and “confirmed foodie” Jane Hutton. Visit her website, www.functionalfoodie. com, and sign up for programmes, recipes and advice.